We first went to Agriturismo Mendicino in 2019, the last time we were in Calabria—and the food, ambiance, and panoramic views were magical. This year (we literally just got back home), when we knew we were returning to visit family and friends in Catanzaro, we didn’t hesitate. We had to go back.
By American standards, the ride up the mountain is quite the challenge—twisty, winding roads with more switchbacks than you’d think possible. But when driving in Italy, I take the view of “Challenge accepted,” much to the dismay of my passengers!
At the top, a dirt driveway leads to a charming parking area, and just beyond it? The coolest wood-fired bread oven I’ve ever seen. One of the owners graciously gave me a peek inside at the golden Calabrian loaves baking to perfection.
And the view? Oh, what a view it is. The green hills roll on for kilometers, blanketed with endless olive trees, and stretch all the way to the blue shimmer of the Tyrrhenian Sea. At dusk, the sunsets over the Gulf of Sant’Eufemia are pure magic—like something out of a painting.
After snapping what felt like a thousand photos, we settled in at a long table (my favorite kind), where bottles of their crisp and surprisingly light house red wine were waiting for us.
The antipasto was a parade of regional delights:
- Polpette di Zucchine (Zucchini “meatballs”) — or as I’ve also seen them called, Pizzelle di Ciurilli. (Don’t ask me for a direct translation—I’m still working on it!)
- A generous spread of Prosciutto, Capicola, and my personal favorite—Soppressata. This place makes some of the best I’ve had.
- Figs so sweet and juicy, they tasted like they’d just been picked from the tree.
- Regional cheeses and an ongoing parade of vegetable side dishes that just kept arriving.
Every pasta dish was made with fresh house-made pasta, and my ravioli was out of this world.
And then came dolce. I went with Tartufo di Pizzo, a frozen gelato dessert native to Calabria. It’s a ball of gelato with a melty chocolate center, traditionally coated in cocoa or chocolate shell.
Other desserts at the table included Lemon Granita, Tiramisu, a chocolate bread, and a fritter dusted with powdered sugar served alongside jam for dipping.
And of course, plenty of espresso to end the night.
Everything—from the scratch-made food to the olive oil pressed right on their farm—is phenomenal. But the true magic is in the surroundings and the people. The owners are warm, friendly, and incredibly tolerant of my terrible Italian. Their hospitality is matched only by the attentive, joyful staff.
As an American who has been adopted by pasta, and who has fallen head over heels for Italy, I can say this with confidence: Americans don’t know what they’re missing by not visiting this part of Italy.
If you ever find yourself in the Catanzaro area of Calabria, no visit is complete without dinner at Agriturismo Mendicino. Reservations can be made at +39.0968.95260. And if you’re brave enough to drive there on your own (you can do it!), plug this into your GPS:
Contrada Polpicello – 88042 Falerna
A Salad That Needs No Recipe
Inspired by that unforgettable night in Falerna, I wanted to bring a little of that Calabrian magic back home—and nothing captures it quite like a simple tomato salad made with the freshest ingredients you can get your hands on.
Now, I’m not talking about supermarket tomatoes. No, no. This salad starts at the Somerville, NJ Farmers Market, open every Sunday in the parking lot of the Somerville Middle School. That’s where I picked up the beautiful Jersey tomatoes (the next best thing to Italian, if we’re being honest) and a sweet, crisp red onion.
The olive oil? That came straight from my suitcase, all the way from Calabria.
The salt? Oregano-infused Sea Salt from Sicily, harvested using the same ancient methods that date back over a thousand years. (Future Blog Post I’m sure!)
There are no measurements for this salad—because there’s no need for them. You don’t need to measure tradition or flavor. Just follow your tastebuds and trust your ingredients.
Here’s how to build it:
- Slice up those Jersey tomatoes (never, ever refrigerate them!)
- Thinly slice red onion, as much or as little as you like
- Drizzle with the best extra virgin olive oil you can get your hands on
- Sprinkle generously with oregano and flaky sea salt—or even better, that wild oregano sea salt from Sicily if you can find it
- Tear off a piece of crusty bread (also from the Somerville Farmers Market, of course) and use it to mop up every last drop of that tomato-olive oil juice at the bottom of the bowl
It’s the kind of salad that doesn’t just complement a meal—it is the meal. Especially when eaten outside, with friends, and maybe a glass of chilled white wine nearby.
Adopted By Pasta 